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Suggested Itinerary
Adventure in the Bush
Cape Town and Environs
Day Trip to the Cape Peninsula National Park and Cape Point
The Winelands
Stellenbosch
The Blue Train
Pretoria

Luxury Wining, Dining and Safari in South Africa

By David and Eileen Peretz

If you are seeking the trip of a lifetime, move South Africa to the top of your list of destinations. Tourism grew at by 17% last year in this breathtakingly beautiful land and there is every reason to believe that the growth will continue. While some still think of South Africa as a troubled land, it is well to recognize that next year, 2004 will be the tenth anniversary of the ending of apartheid and the establishment of a democratic society. Thanks to the wisdom and patience of white and black leaders, equal rights exist for people of all color, peacefully achieved. Despite the fact that a long road lies ahead, with a great need for better education and adequate housing, for foreign investment in industry and institutions, there is a great deal of energy and a sense of hope for the future. So, if you are curious and seek a new experience, you will discover the most luxurious facilities, warm hospitality and a sense of adventure. Fine wining and dining abound, in many ways the equal to a visit to France, and there is nothing that can compare to a safari in the bush led by dedicated, informed and passionate rangers and trackers. It is an amazing experience. We met two honeymooning couples and know of several others who chose this unforgettable trip to begin married life. That said, whether you are on a first or second honeymoon or neither, but want a great holiday, we値l offer a suggested itinerary, how to get there, how to get around once there, places to stay, sites to visit, museum info, dining, wining and shopping tips, and of course, how to stay healthy during your exciting journey of discovery. If you need expert help with your planning and arrangements, consider contacting Jenni Lipa Kayyali at Spa Trek Travel (www.spatrek.com for further details). Jenni, a superb travel agent is located in New York, but originates from South Africa and has extensive contacts there, including some discounted travel.

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Suggested Itinerary

Fly To Johannesburg Airport. Stay overnight at one of the fine hotels in the suburbs of Johannesburg.

Fly from Johannesburg to Sabi Sands or Kruger National Park. Stay at one of Singita's Game Lodges or another Lodge of your choice. Plan a four-day stay.

Next, depending on your choice of routes: You can fly back to Johannesburg Airport and either visit Pretoria for two or three nights (45 minutes from the airport by car) or transfer for the two and a half hour flight to Cape Town. If you choose Pretoria, stay at Illyria House, a magnificent experience. See below. From Pretoria, you値l visit the city center, museum and take a tour to the Cullinan Diamond mine and the Sammy Marks house. Or, you may choose to spend an extra day and visit the World Heritage Site (several hours in the car). You can fly to Cape Town after your stay in Pretoria or take the Blue Train, overnight to Cape Town, with a stop at the Kimberly Diamond mine enroute.

If you opt to go to Cape Town first, you値l tour the city museums, Table Mountain, Robin Island, Kirstenbosch Gardens and spend a day visiting the Cape of Good Hope National Park. You値l need three days. From Cape Town, if you are interested in wines, spend three days and nights in the Winelands. Beautiful country. Wonderful food and fine wine. If you are an art lover, you値l want to consider a two or three day visit to see the rock art, north of Cape Town. A six hour drive, but well worth the effort. The paintings are five thousand years old! While not Lascaux or Altamira, they are certainly a do not miss, if you can take the time and make the effort.

There is much to see in South Africa, including the Garden Route, a separate itinerary. You値l need three weeks to accomplish the above itinerary in full, sixteen days if you decide to pass on the rock art.

How to Get There and When to Visit

Though many travelers choose to visit South Africa in 都ummer (roughly from December), our visit was in late September, early October (Spring) and we were fortunate to have comfortable weather, except for two very hot days in Pretoria (95 degrees Fahrenheit). If you are intolerant of heat, late April, early May is suggested as a very good time to visit. You can travel to South Africa, if you choose, via London, using Continental and its partner, Virgin Air or via Paris, flying Delta and its partner, Air France. Other options are also available. We chose to fly direct (non-stop) from New York痴 JFK to Johannesburg and our sole option was South African Airways. The equipment is Boeing 747 and the service is considerate, though the food could stand an upgrade. The flight is nearly fifteen hours. The return includes a one hour stopover in Dakar for re-fueling.

Health Precautions

Preparations for your journey must begin in advance with a discussion with your physician or a specialist travel physician regarding the immunizations that you will require and the anti-malarial medicine that you will take for a period before, during and after your trip. Both proper immunizations and anti-malarials are essential! Larium or Malarone appear to be the current anti-malarials of choice. Once again, check with your physician!

You値l need advice on what to wear to afford the maximum protection against mosquitos (obviously, long-sleeved clothing) and recommended creams, lotions and sprays for use on skin and clothing. For terrific travel clothing at reasonable prices, visit www.cabela.com or, at the higher end, www.tillyendurables.com Use our link to the Center for Communicable Diseases to inform yourself before visiting your physician. You will be in a better position to explore your options. It is our belief that the best consumer of health care is an informed consumer.

Arrival and Overnight

On arrival at Johannesburg Airport, we rented a cell-phone from Stephen at the Vodaphone desk and the Nokia served us well for local and international calls. We were met by a driver (Ntokozo Dube, by name) from the Westcliff Hotel. Zulu by ancestry, this bright young man spoke five of the eleven languages in current use in South Africa. The Westcliff is located about 35 minutes from the airport in the Northern suburbs of J達urg. The hotel, built along the lines of a series of multistoried Mediterranean villas, is beautifully situated. The distant view from our lovely room included woods and the J達urg Zoo. The marble bathroom was beautifully appointed, with a separate large shower and huge soaking tub. Both came in handy after the long flight from New York. We had an excellent dinner at the Westcliff, our first encounter with the high quality of South Africa痴 cuisine. Service was impeccable. Rene, a French accordionist (forty years in South Africa) and his Serbian sidekick violinist, serenaded each table in turn, with a huge repertory of romantic tunes. A fine dinner, a good night痴 sleep and we were ready to return to the airport to begin our adventure in the bush. Other equally fine hotels in the Northern suburbs for such a stopover include The Saxon and The Michelangelo.

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Adventure in the Bush

Nowhere is this adventure better realized than at the Singita Lodges in Sabi Sand Game preserve, adjacent to Kruger National Park.

A few words on packing for this trip. We needed some dress-up clothes for fine hotels, restaurants and The Blue Train. The dress code at the game lodges, even the most luxurious, is casual. We learned that the limited luggage space of the single engine 11-seater that would fly us to Singita required that we store our two large suitcases with Federal Air for the return to J達urg Airport and transfer to our flight to Cape Town. For our four days in the bush, we each carried a 26 duffel bag and a carry-on. It worked out fine, though in total, six pieces is more luggage than we池e used to toting. Be aware, that if you have any respiratory problems, check with your physician. The single engine plane flies at roughly 10,000 feet and is not pressurized, nor is there oxygen available by mask. We chuckled as the pilot opened his side window for a breath of fresh air. The charter flight (Singita will arrange it and bill you) was a bit bumpy but we were in the hands of expert pilots. The landscape below was beautiful, with silvery strips of river or lake scattered amidst the low hills and plains.

The Singita landing strip was our third stop. We dropped passengers for Singita Lebombo, a new lodge, half an hour flight distant from Ebony (where we were staying) and Londolozi. Waiting for us at the strip was Dave McKenzie who would be our driver-guide and Leonard, our tracker, raised in a town in the immediate vicinity預nd the intrepid Land Rover. This gracious and dedicated men, passionate about their work, are a crucial element in the experience. The remarkable vehicle, too, would serve us well in the days ahead. We drove for a few minutes and arrived outside of Ebony Lodge, warmly greeted by staff and taken to lunch at poolside. While you may gasp at the tariffs, rest assured that the stay at Singita is priceless. From what we saw and heard from others, it is without peer. This is not to say that there are not other great places to stay (we値l mention a few), but if there are a few in the topmost rank, it is not too much to say that Singita is first among equals. Your every need is met and usually anticipated before you致e expressed it. The staff is remarkably warm and friendly and highly competent. They enjoy their work and the interaction with guests. From management to staff, whether in the dining room, housekeeping, gym or on the grounds of the Lodge, you are among 吐riends. What other hotel have you stayed in where spontaneous, appreciative hugs are routine upon departure? Yvonne Samuels is at the front desk and Gary Coetzee wears the toque and cooks creatively every day. The kitchen is on a 16-day cycle, and during that . period the menu changes daily. Nothing is repeated at lunch and dinner. Talk about challenges for a chef預nd well met, indeed.

For lunch, between us, we selected and shared gazpacho, a carpaccio of springbok with pineapple and juniper berry and a roast vegetable quiche. Relaxed and satisfied, we repaired to our spacious and beautiful individual lodge. The accommodations were beautifully appointed, consisting of a living room with fireplace, huge bedroom, dressing room, stall shower, separate large bathtub with a view from the window out to the deck and across the river. No amenity was lacking. We unpacked and relaxed out on the deck (into which was set a good size plunge pool). Beyond the deck were trees leading down to the riverbank. We spotted a crocodile, lazing in the sun, on a shoal, no more than fifty yards away from the lodge. Soon, we excitedly noted the arrival of a family of elephants on the opposite bank of the river. As four o団lock approached and with it, our first game drive, we applied insect repellent toexposed areas and sprayed our bush jackets with Permethrin, a further anti-mosquito precaution. As it turned out, rainy season would come later, after our departure from the region and mosquitoes were not evident. We played it safe, nonetheless- better safe than sorry.

We walked to the main lodge where tea was served before departure on our first game drive and there, met two fellow travelers, John and Sian, Londoners on honeymoon. Relishing the prospect of seeing the animals in their habitat, the four of us followed Dave and Leonard to the parking area, climbed aboard the Land Rover and set off. I was bewildered by the devastation in the bush耀cores and scores of broken tree limbs and downed trees. I soon learned that elephant sustenance consists largely of the bark of these trees. They breaking off branches, use the trunk to pass them through their mouth and peel away the edible portion, requiring huge amounts daily.

The animals we壇 seen previously were behind fences or bars, in zoos. To see them in their landscape was to experience their great beauty and majesty. A herd of impala was our first sighting. Over the next two to three hours we would spot white rhinos, a cheetah, hippos bathing, crocodile, giraffe, waterbuck and shrike. We came to appreciate the silence and a sky so dark that the stars stood out as if in relief, oh, so bright. Above us glowed the Southern Cross, Scorpio and the Milky Way, an astronomer痴 delight.

We returned to the lodge for a lovely meal of Mozambican prawns, a local variation of Caesar salad, Scottish salmon with noodles and a four star flavorful ostrich filet that had been marinated for hours and was served medium rare on the rare side, exactly as requested. We tasted an excellent chardonnay, with a hint of California in light tropical fruit and a 1993 Cabernet that had aged beautifully. It possessed a great nose of tobacco, sandalwood and black cherry with soft fruit, berry and toffee flavors. In my excitement, I forgot to note the name on the labels. We were accompanied back to our lodge by a staff member and settled down for a night痴 sleep, aware of our 4:30AM wakeup for the dawn drive.

To our pleasant surprise, the adrenaline rush of a second drive overcame any fatigue we might feel and we awoke to the alarm, eager to set off again. We were offered coffee or tea and biscuits or muffins (a full breakfast would be served upon our return) and by 5:45AM were back on the road. We came upon two male lions and learned the virtue of patience. Lions sleep twenty to twenty-two hours each day, hunting and playing around during the odd hours. These two handsome male specimens were lying lazily, half-awake, half-asleep, undisturbed by our presence. The animals, for the most part have learned that the Land Rovers and their occupants mean them no harm and live in harmony with us. Then, a female came along, and suddenly, the lions roused themselves from their torpor. One of them tried to mount her and was swatted away. She left, they set off after her, and we followed them. A short while later, we would come upon the pride預nother female and three cubs. We sat quietly and observed the lioness groom her cub, the cubs play at stalking and fighting, and the males 塗anging out. Needless to say, it was remarkable. Later that morning we would see two giraffes, swaying as they walked with the elegance and grace of ballet dancers. We saw them take leaves from the high branches of trees. Back at the lodge, it was time for our first breakfast: there was an assortment of fruits, breads, croissants, cereals, granola, delicious yogurt and all varieties of eggs. This morning痴 special were poached eggs with asparagus and bacon.

The possibilities for guests before lunch and the ensuing afternoon drive include the lodge痴 beautiful pool, the personal plunge pool, a nicely equipped gym, a well-stocked library with television and Internet-connected computer, shopping at the Singita store, relaxing on the deck or a nap. The next few days, one or both of us would sample each of these options.

Lunch this day was a buffet. The choices included a superb carrot and coriander soup, lamb curry with samosa and condiments, ham with pineapple, chicken breast, sweet potato salad, a variety of other salads, a pancake (thin layers), frittata-like, with vegetables within each layer. Dessert was a meringue with fruit salad and cream.

Our second night drive began with Leonard痴 discovery of leopard tracks. In searching for the leopard, we spotted kudu, baboons and impala. At one point, a zebra appeared to signal danger and an impala herd fled, in groups of three. It turned out that they were fleeing from a cheetah. After a long search for our leopard, we came upon a hyena. Dave suggested that the hyena might be trailing the leopard as well, to garner the remains of a kill. We lost the hyena, only top come upon it when we stopped for the traditional 都undowner, a drink or tea in the bush. We hopped back into our vehicle, lost the hyena, and then found it once more, feasting on part of a kill. Our night drive ended rather dramatically, coming upon the elusive leopard, skittering down a tree and into tall reeds, where it stared out at us, eyes large and luminous. Looking up into the branches of the tree, we spotted a baby buck, the leopard痴 kill, where the predator had secured it, until we interrupted the meal with our arrival. Along the route home, we took note of a beautiful large owl in a tree and two hippos.

We returned to the lodge to discover yet another surprise. We were taken to a clearing near the main lodge, beautifully lit by lanterns all around. There was a huge bonfire in the center, buffet tables along the side where Gary and the staff were cooking a barbecue dinner. We were served a first-rate Bouchard Finlayson Chardonnay as we took in the sight. A tour of the buffet table revealed appetizers of salads, olives, cheeses, peppers and main courses of klinglip fish, beef filet, a sausage specialty, oxtail, chicken, cabbage, potatoes, carrots and honey. Excellent shiraz wines from 1996 and 1998 were served and dessert was a delicious dark chocolate tart with strawberries. To cap it all off, members of the staff performed local songs and dances. Tired and exhilarated, we returned to our lodges for a deep sleep before day three.

Day three brought us sightings of nyala, waterbuck, the lion pride, many beautiful birds, including vultures and eagles, a mongoose, monkeys, a wart hog, a herd of elephants very close-up as they fed on the branches of trees, a hair-raising ride across hill, bush and river to get a view of a female leopard with cub, more baboons and impalas.

At other meals at Ebony, we sampled such dishes as ostrich egg omelette (3 yums on our rating scale), bobotie (a Cape Malay dish that we referred to as South African moussaka預 delicious combination of spiced ground lamb or beef topped with a custard), pap (maize meal porridge), morogi (wild spinach and potato in phyllo), coconut, lime and sweet potato soup, almond and polenta cake with lemon cream, ostrich, pork and lamb sausages.

Our final night drive introduced us to a hyena den, near which we saw a female hyena and her cub, just as the sun went down. We encounted a rhino blockade on the road and waited it out to pass. As we were waiting, we spotted a giraffe and baby giraffe in full flight, from lions as it later turned out. We late came upon a parade of four male lions who passed within five feet of where I was sitting in the Land Rover.

Dinner was served at the Boulders Lodge one evening. There, we sampled quail, spring rolls and a beef Wellington. Francois Rautenbach, the sommelier for Singita, graciously provided a wine tasting in the Lodge痴 cellar and an informative introduction to South African wines. More about that to follow in our report on the Winelands of South Africa.

With hugs, kisses and a fervent wish to return, we departed from Singita for the next leg of our journey of discovery. On to Cape Town.

P.S. It should be noted that we are not alone in our immense regard for the Singita experience. Conde Nast Traveler rated it "World's Number One Destination" and Harper's Hideaway rated it "Number One Internationa; Resort for 2001 and 2002. For reservations: Tel: 27-21-683-3424; Fax: 27-21-683-3502 e-mail: singita@singita.com.za

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Cape Town and Environs

The small plane picked us up at the Singita air strip and returned us to Johannesburg Airport. There, we picked up the luggage that Federal Air had held for us, were bussed to our terminal, checked-in and took the two and a half hour flight to Cape Town. Situated in the Western Cape, one of South Africa痴 most beautiful areas, Cape Town is an impressive city, suspended between sea and mountain ranges. It serves as the capital of South Africa six months each year (the legislature spends the other six months in Pretoria). Travel an hour or so east or north east of Cape Town and you reach the beautiful South African Winelands, the breathtaking topography a cross between Burgundy and the valleys of the Swiss Alps. In another direction, within an hour or two, you can see fishing towns and pay a delightful visit to the Cape National Peninsula Park.

Where to Stay

Our choice was the Cape Grace Hotel, situated near the vibrant V&A Waterfront. A five star hotel, it lived up to its billing with beautiful, spacious, tastefully furnished rooms, lovely views of the harbor (seals, seagulls, boats) and/or mountains, an excellent staff預nd coming soon a major spa. The restaurant in the hotel, One.Waterfront, is world-class. In our opinion, if in France, this restaurant would be a two-star Michelin dining experience. The cuisine under the direction of Bruce Robertson, one of South Africa痴 leading chefs, is original and fresh. He uses the finest products available in fish, meat and vegetables to great advantage. The first night痴 meal was so good, that we could not resist and went back for a second dinner, two nights later. (122 rooms) Tel: 27-21-410-7100; Fax: 27-21-419-7622.

On the edge of town, on a hill overlooking the Atlantic Coast and fabulous views, is Ellerman House. Eleven guest rooms, very expensive, and from what we hear from correspondents who stayed there, a superb experience. If do you stay at Ellerman House, you will plan your meal each day with your chef, as meals and drinks (except wine and champagne) are included in the rate. There is a pool and a small gym on the property andit is only a few minutes by car or cab from the center of the city. Tel: 27-21-430-3200; Fax: 27-21-434-7257. Web site: www.ellerman.co.za

How to Get Around

We would highly recommend a private car and driver for your visit to Cape Town, the Cape Peninsula National Park and during your stay in the Winelands. If you are from the US and inclined to rent a car, be aware that, like in England, they drive on the left. We wanted to concentrate on the extraordinary views. Ardi Hagglund, whom we hired, proved an outstanding choice. He was our guide as well as driver. Friendly and very well-informed on a variety of subjects, Ardi provided us with insights into life in South Africa, its problems and potentials. We learned about daily life through hearing about his family, which consists of his school-teacher wife and three sons. This personal contact added considerably to our experience. By our request, Ardi picked us up at our hotel at 9:30AM, whether we were staying in Cape Town, Paarls or Stellenbosch, and then returned us to the hotel at 5:30PM. For further information and reservations, you can e-mail him at Ardi@Ardis.co.za; or visit his website at www.ardis.co.za; Tel: 27-82-655-0137; Fax: 27-790-7880.

What to See

If the clouds part, you can稚 miss seeing Table Mountain, but you should also get up to the summit if weather permits. The views from the 3500 foot high summit are considered awesome. The flora is varied and magnificent. Most visitors to Cape Town take the cable car to the top and then, those so inclined, hike one of the well-marked trails. Or if you are in great shape and an experienced hiker, you may choose to go up the trail on foot. But if you do, be sure to go prepared with abundant water (1/2 gallon per person is recommended), proper clothing and shoes and a mobile phone. Be careful! There are treacherous paths, ending in cliffs預nd a sudden change in weather (i.e. heavy mist blowing in), can leave you stranded until the rescue team arrives. Make proper inquiries before undertaking such a hike. Tasty food is available at a self-service restaurant near the cable car. Come prepared clothing-wise for sudden changes of weather.

Robben Island: Nelson Mandela spent twenty-seven years imprisoned on this island, the price he paid for his struggle against apartheid, a struggle he won ten years ago with the establishment of democracy in South Africa. You can visit the island and the prison, under the auspices of the Robben Island Museum (Tel: 27-21-419-1300). The tour guides were, for the most part, political prisoners themselves at one time. Allow over 3 hours between ferry ride and island tour (including the prison and the stone quarry where Mandela and other prisoners labored). Be sure to reserve well in advance or have your hotel concierge do so.

District Six Museum: A visit to this museum, housed in a Methodist church, is a powerful emotional experience that will connect you to the lives of the inhabitants of one of Cape Town痴 neighborhoods, where people of many cultures lived in peace葉hat is, until 1966 when the apartheid Nationalist government, in an act of colossal cruelty (and as it turned out, stupidity), evicted them from their homes and resettled them in barracks in the Cape Flats. They razed each and every house, leaving only a few small churches and mosques standing, with plans to create an all-white area and to invite corporations from outside of South Africa to build. The hue and cry of the world resulted in almost nothing being built and today, much of District Six is bare, save for a covering of grass. The museum is rich with family photographs, street signs and memorabilia, contributed by those who were removed from their homes. We were fortunate to be shown around the museum by a docent who had lived there and served as a district health foficer. Open Mon-Sat 9-4PM at 25A Buitenkant St. Tel: 27-21461-4735.

Cape Town Tourism Information Office: For help with questions about your Cape Town and environs itinerary, this is a great place to go. Friendly, informative staff; an Internet caf, a National Parks desk, etc. Pinnacle at Burg and Castle Streets. Weekdays 9-6PM; Sat: 8:30-2PM; Sun. 9-1PM.

South African National Gallery: This is a do not miss. The museum exhibits South African painting, sculpture and photography. Many of the works vividly portray aspects of the political struggles of the past fifty years in a variety of styles. There is also a small but interesting collection of 19th and 20th European and British works on display. Government Ave., Gardens. Tues-Sun 10-5PM.

South African Jewish Museum: Jewish immigration to South Africa goes back to the 19th century. This museum effectively tells the story of Jewish life and participation in the development of the nation. From Sammy Marks and his partnership with Cecil Rhodes in diamond mining, to Barney Barnato and gold mines, to lawyers and legislators (Helen Suzman) in the struggle against apartheid, Jews have participated actively in business and politics as well as observing their religion. There are hi-tech and multi-media displays. 88 Hatfield Street. Sun.-Thurs. 10-5PM, Fri. 10-2PM; Tel: 27-21-465-1546. Across the plaza from this contemporary museum is the Holocaust Center, modeled after the one in Washington, with a special section on apartheid and its implications. It is well worth the visit.

St. George's Cathedral: Built at the turn of the century in Gothic Revival style, with beautiful stained glass windows, it is from this pulpit that Archbishop Desmond Tutu (later a Nobel Prize laureate), as first black archbishop of Capetown, preached against and denounced apartheid. Daily 8-5PM.

Castle of Good Hope: This late 17th century building is unprepossessing, designed in a pentagonal style to provide coverage against attacks from the sea. You can take a tour (11, noon or 2) or visit on your own. Buitenkant Street.

Other Places of Interest

Slave Tree, Two Oceans Aquarium (outstanding), South African Cultural History Museum, Greenmarket Square (for gift-buying-crafts, clothing, fabrics, art) Long Street (antique dealers, Georgian and Victorian buildings), South African Museum (natural history and anthropology, including a superb collection of Bushmman rock paintings and engravings), Greenmarket Square (for gift-buying幼rafts, clothing, fabrics, art), Long Street (antique dealers, Georgian and Victorian buildings).

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Day Trip to the Cape Peninsula National Park and Cape Point

For an exciting day of touring, leave Cape Town and go south. You値l pass through scenic suburbs and then to the False Bay coastline out to Cape Point. Leaving Cape Town, you pass windmills, Devils peak in the distance, the Rhodes Memorial. Before False Bay you pass the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, South Africa痴 world famous botanical garden with more than 22,000 indigenous plants, many of them found exclusively in the Cape Peninsula. The Gardens are a must see, but do it on your return in the afternoon (if it turns out that you have the time) or leave it for another day. If you are there between June and November there are excellent vantage points for whale viewing along the coast傭ut, if you are a whale fancier, for the best viewings you might want to drive to Hermanus (90 minutes from Cape Town), watch from the cliffs or go out on a tourist boat and see them closer up. If you壇 like to overnight in Hermanus, Birkenhead House is a luxury hotel with views of the Bay from some rooms. The annual whale migration is at its peak in September and October.

On the day trip to Cape Point, you pass through Fishhoek and Simonstown. You may come across baboons along the road. They are a protected population in this area and may be seen roaming the beaches. Keep a safe distance from them. Don稚 open windows of cars or doors, don稚 show or offer food and move away slowly if approached. They can be dangerous.

When you reach the Point, visit the penguins on Boulders Beach. There are large numbers of penguins on and around the shoreline and in the water. Quite a sight. Then take the funicular to the summit (runs every few minutes) for spectacular views of the rugged mountains, cliffs and sea. Take a table at the Park restaurant and enjoy a pleasant lunch of delicious baby squid salad, butterfish or the chefs special fried pasta along with the view. You値l find a well-stocked gift shop next door to the restaurant.

You can return along the Atlantic coast (or do it in reverse for that matter). We stopped at an ostrich farm along the road on our return to Cape Town and for a cup of delicious coffee at a private reserve (Mninda). At this reserve, we saw the Cape Buffalo that we had missed in the bush, rounding out our sightings of the Big Five.

Where to dine in Cape Town

One.Waterfront

We mentioned this restaurant earlier when we described the Cape Grace Hotel. It is truly outstanding. One dinner consisted of a Quail Caesar salad, a platter of gravlax, brandade and smoked trout, Yellowtail with potato, chive, onions, lemon-leek, Springbok (venison). Wines were a 2002 Constantia Uitsig Sauvignon Blanc, crisp, clean and with herbal and citrus accents and a 2001 Graham Beck Shiraz, loaded with fruit which went beautifully with the game. Champagne sorbet, caviar and yogurt, cleared the palate. Dessert was a delicious 吐ried ice cream in which Melba toast paste was blended with coffee ice cream. Bruce Robertson痴 plates are a reflection of his graphic arts background and they are dazzling. At a second, more causal meal, we sampled Fish Cakes, a great hamburger, Crayfish and Langoustine, finishing up with Tarte Tatin and a Banana Boat for dessert. Three 土ums once more.

Baia: Victoria Wharf, V&A Waterfront. Tel: 21-421-0935

Beautifully designed spaces, views of Table Bay and excellent cuisine make this a first-rate choice for your visit to Cape Town. They specialize in seafood and we made the most of it. Wild oysters were superb, Mussel chowder delicious, Tuna carpaccio good, while the Cataplana (a Portugese Bouillabaise) and the Shellfish platter of shrimp, langoustine and baby lobster were outstanding and the lemon tart could not have been better. We enjoyed a pleasant Steenberg sparkling wine recommended by the waiter as well as an excellent 2002 Steenberg Reserve Sauvignon Blanc.

Buitenverwachting: Off Klein Constantia Road; Tel: 21-794-1012.

This restaurant, reputedly one of the finest on the Cape, is located in a beautiful winery where you can enjoy free tastings. Well worth the visit whether you dine here or not. We would have reported on it but they are closed on Sunday, our only open evening. Open for lunch except for Saturday. Picnic lunches available for dining on the grass beneath a stately tree.

Other restaurants of note: Blue Danube (French-Austrian), Bukhara (North Indian), Ginja, to name a few.

Special shopping tips

Cape Cobra Leather Craft: Shopping for exotic leather goods (beautiful women痴 handbags, briefcases, belts etc) in ostrich, crocodile, wild crocodile, python, you can稚 beat this showroom-design studio-workshop. Their quality and workmanship is outstanding. Take a private factory tour (by appointment 7:30AM-4:30PM weekdays), and then visit the showroom where you can purchase or order for shipping at favorable prices. Your driver can arrange an appointment, or ask the hotel痴 concierge to call on your behalf. Located in Hill House (4th floor) at 43 Somerset Rd. Greenpoint, Cape Town 43 Somerset Rd. Greenpoint, Cape Town weekdays. Tel: 27-21-4153440; e-mail: info@capecobra.co.za; website: www.capecobra.co.za

For Wine: Caroline痴 Fine Wine Cellar, Shop 8, King痴 Warehouse, Victoria Wharf, Waterfront, Cape Town (21) 425-5701

Children痴 Wooden Puzzles: These makes great gifts for toddlers through seven year olds, varying in complexity. A few steps from the Wine Cellar listed above in the King痴 Warehouse, Victoria Wharf.

Cape Coffee Break: If you love good coffee, try a Cappucino at Vida e Caffee in the V&A Waterfront. It is a chain, a mini-Starbuck痴, and you may come across it in other Cape Town venues as well.

Dental Emergency

One of us had a dental emergency: a crown came out while biting into a dried fruit during a 都undowner in the bush. Fortunately, the crown was retrieved by our tracker. When we arrived in Cape Town, the staff at the Cape Grace Hotel recommended Dr. Bertu De Milander, Suite 308, Victoria Wharf, Waterfront, Cape Town (Tel: 21-418-2668). We could not have been more pleased with his care, expertise and professionalism. We hope that you have no need of such services during your vacation, but if you do, in our opinion, you will be in very good hands.

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The Winelands

Within an hour of Cape Town, you reach South Africa痴 wine country. It is absolutely beautiful! You will see sophisticated towns and breathtaking scenery that will recall Napa, Burgundy and Switzerland, within a day. The Winelands of South Africa is coming into its own as a world-class wine region, capable of producing wines capable of aging beautifully and becoming the equivalent of the grand crus of France. We tasted a few such wines. The good, solid values in Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs, Merlots, Cabernet Sauvignon blends and Shiraz remain relatively undiscovered in the United States. As colonizers, until post-World War II, the British were (and still continue to be) the main importers of South African wine.

We allowed three days for our initial exploration, departing from Cape Town and in the morning and stopping for a wine-tasting lunch in the Winhuis in Stellenbosch. Stellenbosch is the second-oldest town in South Africa (after Capetown), a university town, possessed of old-world charm, with fine examples of the European architecture of Holland and England across the centuries. It is the center of the wine country. At the Winhuis, we tasted 2000 Saxenburg Sauvignon Blanc (more California in style, with tropical fruit and a long finish); 2001 Villiera Cellar Door Chenin Blanc, a bit sour to our taste; 2000 Longridge Chardonnay, the best of the tasting- crisp, clean, well-structured with light balanced tropical and citrus flavors. 1999 Delheim Grand Reserve (100% cabernet sauvignon) was excellent with good structure and lingering cassis and berry. 1999 Holdenberg WS Merlot had an herbal nose, red fruits and a long finish- a unique merlot. With the wines, we tried a pasta primavera, carpaccio of yellowtailk, fried calamari (terrific), pesto, tomato and cucumber. Our waitress, Lezella was most helpful with the wine selections. If you壇 like to overnight in Stellenbosch, consider The Village at Spiers... We stayed at Spiers for one night on our return to Cape Town from Paarl and will describe it further on in the report.

Enroute to Paarl, we stopped to visit De Toren (The Tower) Vineyard. We met the owner, Mr. De Toren and his young winemaker, Albie Koch. This small vineyard is producing small quantities of superb wine, constantly experimenting with the vines and the varietals. 1999 was their first vintage, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon with small percentages of Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot. They study the micro-terroir for best match between soil (seven different soil types) and varietal (five), use eleven clones, ferment with the whole berry, trellis the vines. We tasted their 2001 Fusion- chewy, great fruit and mouth puckering- and their 2003 Diversity Gamma (36% Cab Franc, 30% Merlot, 16% Cab Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 8% Malbec- another wine with great drinking potential. Our hats are off to the restless creative spirits of De Toren!

Where to stay in The Winelands

From De Toren, we continued through a beautiful landscape of trout streams, vineyards planted on hillsides, reaching up the mountains in a quest for arable land on which to plant new vines, amid cloud-covered mountains. We arrived at our hotel, Grande Roche in Paarl. This hotel is a member of the Relais and Chateaux, and served as our base for further exploration of the wine country. Set on a hillside, with views across the valley to those aforementioned splendid mountains, the hotel provides lovely, spacious cottage suites, beautiful grounds, two swimming pools, a small gym, tennis courts and hiking trails and it is surely one of the best hotels in South Africa. In fact, it has been named Hotel of the Year in South Africa.

The main building is a Cape Dutch manor house dating from the 18th century. Be sure to visit the shop in the main house. In it, you will find an excellent selection of Southern African art and artifact, discovered by Ken Karner, an American expat and inveterate explorer. Rose, the manager of the shop, is very helpful and knowledgeable. Bosman痴 restaurant is also located in the main building and is among the finest in South Africa.

Like the town of Paarl (Dutch for pearl), which stretches out for six plus miles along the bank of a river, the hotel sits beneath and between stunning domed granite mountains, looking out and up towards vineyards, the valley and Drakenstein mountains. The original buildings (i.e. wine cellar, slave quarters and stables) were converted to guest quarters, while additions were built in traditional style. The hotel offers 5 rooms and 30 suites. Plantasie Street, Paarl Tel: 27-21-863-2727; Fax: 27-21-863-2220; www.granderoche.com.za

Where to dine

Bosman痴 is clearly our first choice. We enjoyed two superb dinners at this restaurant and look forward to returning one day. Cellarmaster Kent Scheermeyer proved to be a superb resource, helping us match wines to each course and suggesting a teaspoon of olive oil before dining and wine tasting, to coat the stomach. The technique worked! Among the dishes sampled in two dinners, we enjoyed an amuse bouche of swordfish quenelle with white bean salad, followed by a bobotie of ostrich (minced) on a bed of almond rice, accompanied by a 2001 Pinot Noir from Haute Cabriere that resembled a first-rate Burgundy. Another memorable dish was a tartar of ostrich, absolutely divine, with quail egg, olive oil, parsley and chive耀imply prepared and all about the superb flavor of the meat. It was accompanied by a glass of 1995 Kleine Constantia Riesling. A main course on the second night was a Loin of Veal that melted in the mouth. When we inquired about the preparation, we learned that it was poached in olive oil at 60 degrees for 4-7 minutes溶o water, just olive oil. Simple and exquisite. Along with this, we tasted 1999 La Rudera, a Shiraz with soft tannins and complex, well-balanced fruit. Also tasted during these two dinners was 2001 Kanu, a Chenin Blanc, which for 2000 was Wine of the Year. This was a perfect complement to a Cape Laksa (Malay sauce, tagliatelle and several fish預 Cape Bouillabaise and truly outstanding). A 1999 Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc was tasted with Silverfish and Risotto. The theme of Dessert was the Strawberry: we sampled it as Yogurt, Gateau with Strawberry ice cream (Sweet pesto/Strawberry) and Strawberry sorbet. A second dessert, Lavender and almond ice cream was accompanied by chocolate. Ambience and service were that of a 3 star Michelin restaurant and cuisine 2-3 stars in quality.

General Manager Horst Frehse has every reason to be proud of his staff from front desk to kitchen to dining room. We recommend the Grand Roche experience most highly for your stay in the Winelands.

Also recommended: Roggeland Country House, 10 rooms, Roggeland Road, Northern Paarl, Tel: 27-21-868-2501; Fax: 27-21-868-2113; www.explore-africa.com/roggeland.

What to see (apart from Wine tastings)

Walking tours of Paarl; The Afrikaan Language Monument; Butterfly farming; Drakenstein Lion Park; Ostrich Show Farm; Ballooning; Horseback riding; Crocodile Farm葉o name just a few. Inquire at the concierge desk of your hotel for suggested itineraries.

In Franschhoek: La Couronne Hotel and Restaurant This country inn is a newcomer, and we stopped enroute to Spiers to have a look. The public spaces and rooms are attractive and the staff welcoming. The hotel is beautifully set with views of mountains and vineyards. There are 19 rooms, and all enjoy fine views. Robertsvlei Road, Franschhoek, Tel: 27-21-876-2770; Fax: 27-21-876-3788; www.lacouronnehotel.co.za

The village is charming, with restaurants, cafes and shops. If you are a collector of tribal art, you won稚 want to miss a visit to Galerie Ezakwantu at the Village Center, Huguenot Road, Franschhoek. The well-informed Amanda Hibbers runs the shop and the previously mentioned Ken Karner is an owner, supplying the gallery with its wonderful pieces from Southern Africa; there are many wineries in the vicinity that you can visit (see suggestions below).

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Stellenbosch

The Village at Spiers

We decided when planning the trip, to stop midway between Paarl and Cape Town for one night before proceeding on to the Blue Train. The Village at Spiers is not intimate, but could be an expecially good choice if you池e traveling as a family. It is set up as a village, a Mediterranean Village, with separate courtyards, pools and comfortable, tastefully furnished cottages. Before checking in to the hotel, we visited the cheetah preserve, where members of this endangered species are being raised by rangers (never to be returned to the bush as they would be unable to function as predators). It is possible to go into the enclosure and to actually pet the cheetah (carefully), with the rangers in attendance and having advised on the approach. One of us did and found the experience thrilling. We dined that night at Figaro痴, the hotel痴 top restaurant (there are several). Craig Cormack is the chef and deserves ranking among the tops in South Africa. Our menu, selected with the recommendations of Leandra, our excellent waitress, consisted of a Mousseline of Prawns with house Smoked Salmon (mango reduction); Brown Onion Soup, a strong beef broth, crouton, no cheese; a Vegetable roll in Vietnamese style, in a sauce of onion, red pepper, lemongrass, sweet chili and lime庸abulous; as an entremets, a 吐ruit shot of strawberry, kiwi and orange;Baked Quail (caramelized) with Stuffed Chicken Mousse and Spinach, parsnip and pear; Filet of Kudu, potato croquette, perfectly prepared crunchy veggies (beet, gren pepper, red pepper, zucchini, carrot容ach cooked separately!) and a cheese platter (2 goats, brie, camembert and a blue); Dessert was Goat Cheese Brulee, fried olives, goat cheese, curried apricot, beautifully served like a Goat Cheese cake預 thoroughly original preparation. We drank a 1993 Meerlust Rubicon Reserve, well priced for its fabulous quality. It opened with a Port nose, but its flavors were Pauillac. As it evolved, the nose became a Cherry Heering. Complex, rich fruit was revealed as the tannin faded-and finally, the finish was chocolate with a hint of fruit幼hocolate covered cherries.

Winery visits

The South African wine scene has been in the process of undergoing major transformation since 1995. The isolation of South Africa from vital interaction with the world in the years prior to that led to insularity and a failure to take advantage of techniques in viticulture that had contributed to the growth of the wine industry in Australia, New Zealand and South America. All of that is changing and the signs are strong that South African wines are on the cusp of entering the world of wine as a serious challenger預t all ends of the quality spectrum庸rom good everyday wines to high end products of remarkable quality and interest. We値l name only a few of the many and leave it up to the reader to make their own finds, in travel or in their local wine shops.

We detailed our visit to De Toren Winery above and will only repeat the name for the sake of inclusiveness. When it hits the market, it is our prediction that it will be a big hit!

Meerlust Estate, Baden Powell Drive (Exit 33 from N2 Highway), Tel: 21-843-3587.

This high-end vineyard has been making wines for 9 generations. By happy circumstance, the Myburgh family and Giorgio Dalla Cia (originally from Friuli) connected in the late 1970痴. The rest is history. Giorgio, working in concert with the family (currently Hannes and his nephew, George), has produced Merlots that, in our opinion, are the equivalent of Grand Cru Pomerols to Cabernet Blends (look for Rubicon), the equal of top Pauillacs. They also make a superb Grappa and delicious boxed dark chocolate treats that are filled with Grappa. Visits to the vineyard are extremely limited but if you can稚 taste at the vineyard, look for the label on restaurant wine lists and buy a few bottles in a wine shop to take home with you. You won稚 regret it. They are available at selected shops in New York.

Jordan Winery, Kloof Road, Stellenbosch. Tel: 21-881-3441.

The husband and wife team of Gary and Kathy Jordan left California and have quickly relatively quickly established themselves as prize-winning winemakers in South Africa. Their whites are very highly rated. Look for 2001 Jordan Chardonnay, Blanc Fume 2001 and Chenin Blanc謡inners all.

Cabriere Winery, Berg Street, Franschhoek, Tel: 21-876-2630

You will find this visit a delightful one as you taste Cabriere痴 delicious 鼎ap Classique sparkling wines and Pinot Noirs in the cellar and learn about their history and production. We were fortunate to have our tasting led by Mrs. Hildegarde von Arnim, the owner痴 wife. Have a late morning tasting and follow it with lunch in the Cabriere Restaurant. First rate.

Rust en Vrede, Annandale Road, Stellenbosch, Tel 21-881-3881, website: www.rustenvrede.com

Enjoy the magnificent view from this wine estate while waiting for your appointment to taste these excellent wines. Louis Strydom is the winemaker and he was recently recognized with ratings in the 90痴 by the Wine Spectator Magazine. Their 2000 Shiraz won a 90 rating and the 2000 Estate Blend 2000 )58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Shitaz and 9% Merlot) a 92. The latter has a great nose. It is possible to drink now (terrific fruit), but should age well for 10-15 years.

Vergelegen, Lourensfour Road, Somerset West, Tel: 21-847-2104, www.vergelegen.co.za

Established in 1989 and producing wines since 1992, this vineyard has swiftly attained a high ranking the pantheon of South African wines. Their winemaker, Andre von Rensburg has been described by some as an 兎nfant terrible but his wines reveal that whatever his method, it is working. The 2001 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc and 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon won Gold medals at a recent competition, with ratings in the 90痴.

Nederburg, Sonstraal Road, Paarl, Tel:21-877-5123

Not far from Grand Roche and worth a visit. We only discovered Nederburg back in New York. Nederburg Chardonnay was served at the James Beard Society South African dinner (chef: Bruce Robertson). We enjoyed it very much and found some the next day in our local wine shop預t $8.99 a bottle預 terrific value. Try it as a nice house white wine alternative. They make many other whites and reds and we値l report on them as we try them.

La Motte Winery, Main Road to Franschhoek, Tel: 21-876-3119

We didn稚 make it to the tasting we had scheduled at La Motte, but we did sample a 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon with a meal and it was excellent!

Boekenhoutskloof, Bohoeck Road, Franschhoek, Tel: 21-876-3320

A small vineyard and boutique producer of excellent Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Semillon. Tastings available.

Fleur du Cap

We did not find this excellent South African label until we returned to New York and attended a Wine and Food dinner where Bruce Robertson of One.Waterfront was guest chef. Next day we made a few phone calls to wine shops and located the wines. And what a pleasant surprise in quality and value: a first rate 2000 Fleur du Cap Pinotage and an en excellent 2000 Fleur du Cap Merlot at $10.99 and $11.99 respectively. Hard to beat the price/quality ratio of these wines.

As mentioned above, there are many excellent vineyards coming into their own. Look for Mulderbosch (2000 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay), De Trafford (2000 Merlot, 2000 Cab Sauvignon), Conde (2000 Cabernet Sauvignon)預ll are located in the Stellenbosch area.

Shopping tips in Stellenbosch

For Gift shopping and Art work, have a look at Traumerei, Dorpsmeent Centre, Andringa& Church Street, Stellenbosch, Tel: 21-887-4132 (Isabel Roos), www.traumereiart.com

What next after the Winelands?

For us it was The Blue Train from Cape Town to Pretoria. Next time, we値l allow an additional few days and drive from Cape Town (162 miles or approximately 4 hours) or fly (l hour) up to Bushmans Kloof , a 15,000 acre reserve in the foothills of the Cederberg Mountains near the Great Karoo Desert. There, if you are a serious art and nature lover, you will find beautiful landscape, waterfalls, wildflowers in profusion (September and October) and5000 year old San Bushman rock art in over 100 sites, now under Natural Heritage. Bushman痴 Kloof is a beautiful lodge with 16 rooms and suites, swimming pools, spa, fine dining, game drives and guided tours to the rock sites. A Relais and Chateaux property, on its web site, the Lodge states that the area is a malaria-free zone. Tel: 27-21-797-0700; Fax: 27-21-761-5551; e-mail: info@bushmanskloof.co.za Website: www.bushmanskloof.co.za

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The Blue Train

You致e heard of The Orient Express, of course. Like the Orient Express, The Blue Train is the height of luxury, a five-star hotel on wheels. It has been that since its inception in 1946. The original trains were replaced with their equals (and then some) between 1996 and 1998. What more is there to say than that it gets you where you are going in high style: beautiful suites, luxurious bathrooms and panoramic windows. You値l meet interesting fellow travelers in the Lounge Car, enjoy High Tea, coffee, Havana cigars, drinks, and meals預ll included in one price (as you would expect, it is very expensive). Food, wine, comfort and service were outstanding. The views from the train are quite lovely. You can travel overnight from Pretoria to Cape Town, with a two hour stop-over to tour the Kimberly Diamond mines, or north from Cape Town to Pretoria with a one hour stop-over to visit the colonial town of Matjiesfontein. The journey from Cape Town departed at 10:30AM, arriving in Pretoria mid-day on the following day (25 hours or so). Also available is a longer journey by train from Pretoria to Victoria Falls. For more information, visit their website: www.bluetrain.co.za Or Tel: 27-11-773-7631; Fax: 27-11-773-7643

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Pretoria

We were collected at The Blue Train station by a car and driver and driven the short distance to our destination for this, the last leg of our journey to South Africa. For us, there is one place to stay in Pretoria, if you can manage it, and that is Illyria House. It is located in the hills overlooking Pretoria. Here, the lovely, charming and elegant Marietjie Van Der Walt has created a very special six-suite guest-house in what was previously a private residence. The suites and public rooms are exquisitely furnished with antiques. She has spared neither effort nor expense in providing a hospitable and welcoming embrace. One travel publication described it glowingly as a setting out of 典welfth Night. Presidents and potentates have been guests, but all are treated with the same thoughtfulness.

You値l dine on your private balcony or on the terrace, having selected your menu for lunch and dinner at breakfast. The service is white glove. You値l discuss wines with your personal butler and make your selection appropriately. Our 澱utler was Emmanuel. He was friendly and very knowledgeable about food and wines.

At our first dinner, we tasted the 2002 Roux Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc and went on to a smooth 2002 Hartenberg Chardonnay. Be prepared to share the terrace and beautiful garden with a family of Mandarin Ducks, who stroll freely about the property, a delightful sight. We dined on Mushroom Soup, rich and earthy, with only a light touch of cream; Artichoke Salad; Steamed, then grilled Crayfish, vegetables and rice, excellent examples of delicious health-conscious dining. A 2000 Waterford Cabernet Sauvignon was accessible, opened up with good fruit and soft tannins. It was excellent with a Duck with Sweet Lemon sauce, cooked for 4 hours. It fell off the bone and was superbly flavorful. Two祢talian cheeses, a Fontina and a Stracchino, and a Blue Rocquefort, all made on South African farms followed, accompanied by a winning 1996 Port wine from Vergenoegd- beautiful finish. A gorgeous fruit plate, served on a decorative spun-sugar boat served as dessert.

On day two, we used the car drive services of Inus Botes and his nephew, Adrian. We highly recommend that you use them to take a day trip and tour the Cullinan Diamond mine a very interesting experience, though you cannot venture below ground. On the return route to Pretoria, pay a visit to the Sammy Marks House. The house was the home at the turn of the century of Sammy Marks. He was, along with Cecil Rhodes, a founder of DeBeers, the world-famous diamond company. While the house is relatively modest, it serves for an intimate look at the life of one of the founders of modern industrial South Africa. It turns out that Marks, a Jewish immigrant from Russia via England, also helped found the steel industry.

In addition to his local Pretoria services, Inus Botes is now offering what could best be described as adventure trips in South Africa: motorcycle tours in the bush, bicycle safaris, etc. For information, Tel: 27-12-546-0955; Fax: 27-12-348-0940; or visit him on the web at (www.in-between.co.za)

When we returned to Illyria House in the early afternoon, we arranged Spa services with Kirsten and Nataly, outdoor in a private corner of the garden, weather permitting. Both were first-reate professionals.

Dinner on our second and last night in South Africa began with a 2001 Oude Welterfrede (sp?). This Chardonnay won a double gold and deserved it. It drank like a Puligny Montrachet. The amuse bouche was a delicious vegetable Spring Roll, then came a Salad of Cheese and Tomato, beautifully served with olives. Mozambique Prawns and Crayfish followed. There was so much meat in the Crayfish we asked that it be used for a Crayfish salad for next day痴 lunch (and it was!). Dessert was a splendid Apple and Raisin Tart, freshly baked and served in a bed of Custard Cream.

We learned in chatting with Marietjie that she had worked up the dining room recipes and trained two women chefs in their preparation. We asked to meet them and applauded their efforts at the conclusion of the dinner.

Illyria House, 327 Bourke Street, Muckleneuk, Pretoria Tel:27-12-344-6035; Fax: 27-12-344-3978; e-mail: illyria@mweb.co.za Website: www.illyria.co.za

Next morning, we went out for half a day tour of Pretoria with Inus Botes. The high points were a visit to the Jan Christian Smuts House, the Union Buildings, but especially to the Voortrekker Monument and Museum, without which a visit to South Africa would not have been complete. If we had an additional day, we would have gone into Johannesburg with a car and driver for a visit to Soweto, a sprawling black township established between World Wars I and II to provide basic housing for workers in the growing industrial sector. If you decide to go, you must go with a private guide or a small tour group.

That afternoon, as we stood in the driveway, and our luggage was placed in the car that would take us to Johannesburg Airport for our SAA evening flight to New York, the entire staff came to the front door and sang us a South African farewell. We will never forget it. Our thanks to all of the staff, Johanna and Josephine in the kitchen, Foster, Emmanuel and those to whom we were not introduced but who made our stay so special.

As we conclude this report of a visit to South Africa, we recommend once again that you move South Africa to the top of your list of destinations. In our opinion, you won稚 regret it.

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